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“It is all those years of work — and when I look at it, I see the continuity; there is no season that pushes another out of date,” said Azzedine Alaïa, standing beside one of a handful of dresses displayed in all their graphic, body-conscious glory in front of Matisse’s “Nymph” murals.
The Fashion Museum in Paris called Palais Galliera is reopening on 28th September after years of renovation, and for this eagerly awaited opening the museum gives pride of place to Azzedine Alaïa! With a selection of 70 iconic design of the great fashion designer, the Parisian retrospective traces his creative path, from his first collection in 1979 to now. Alaïa has shaped a new body, as a sculptor whose hands shape muslin and leather. He is one of the few to control all stages of the production of a garment: draw a pattern, draw on the canvas shapes and volumes he has in mind, cut, sew and tame tissue. Inventing new morphologies, his work transcends time, establishing him as the sublime craftsman, and the insatiable lover of women who has many admirers. We cannot get enough of it!
From his beginnings in Christian Dior’s studio in the late 50s to his designs for choreographer Angelin Preljocaj’s ballet “Les Nuits,” not to mention his triumph in 1984, when he was named designer of the year and won the special prize from the jury at the Oscars de la Mode, Azzedine Alaïa has always had an extraordinarily independent approach. Today he stands out as an alien in the fashion world, making women’s bodies sublime through his sculptural shapes (the waists are emphasized by bias cuts inspired by the famed 1930s designer Madeleine Vionnet).
But Mr. Alaïa has done little to show himself over his 30 years as fashion’s secret star. The exhibition, so graceful, harmonious and generous, captures the essence of the designer: his modesty in the face of such exceptional talent. His work is more at home in a museum than on a runway, and that’s just as well.
“He has been waiting all his life for this moment,” said Carla Sozzani, his friend and fashion supporter through her 10 Corso Como Milan store and beyond.
Photos via www.trendland.com
From September 28 2013 to January 26, 2014
Curator: Olivier Saillard, director of the Palais Galliera
- Sources: nytimes.com; uk.blouinartinfo.com ; trendland.com
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