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11 years, 4 months ago
THE NEXT THING IS HERE: BIOCOUTURE
Filled under: Fashion, Front Page
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'Biography' presents a wide selection of works from Elmgreen & Dragset's complex universe, including sculpture, performance and interactive installations. Works from the late 1990s onwards will be shown together with recent projects, ...
Photo Anders Sune Berg
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Working in the now, near and far future we help brands to imagine their biodesigned future. From microorganisms like bacteria, fungi and algae to cellulose, chitin and protein fibres like silk, we’re exploring Nature’s sustainable materials for future consumer products.

Our clients span two worlds. We’re building relationships with biomaterial innovators so we can empower fashion, sport and luxury brands to understand, imagine and prototype future visions with this new material landscape. What will your brand look like in a biodesigned future?

photo treehugger.com

photo treehugger.com

Yes, eco-chic has gone to an absurd — and strangely beautiful — place, with Suzanne Lee‘s BioCouture prokaryote-grown garments. Lee, a senior research fellow in the school of fashion and textiles at Central Saint Martins in London, makes clothes from the same microbes used to ferment green tea. By throwing yeast, sweetened tea, and bacteria into bathtubs, she produces sheets of cellulose that can be molded into something you might actually want to wear. (Fortunately, the microbes are non-pathogenic.)

photo fastcodesign.com

photo fastcodesign.com

Is it possible to “grow a frock from a vat of liquid” using cellulose-spinning bacteria? This is exactly what fashion designer Suzanna Lee asked before she began BioCouture, a research project based at Central Saint Martin’s College in London. From a vat of sugary green tea, she grew a textile biomaterial, resulting in seamless clothing that has the look and feel of vegetable leather (we read it first on Seed and Sew). Click through for more gross (but cool) photos, and our questions answered by the designer, after the jump:

photo treehugger.com

photo treehugger.com

Bio bowl photo treehugger.com

Bio bowl
photo treehugger.com

The results are completely haunting. Consider this ruffle jacket, which looks like it was pulled from the closet of Bloody Mary.

The pieces of the garments fuse together as moisture evaporates, forming seams. Lee then tints them with fruit or vegetable dye. When they wear out, you just toss them in the compost bin.

photo fa331maher.blogspot.com

photo fa331maher.blogspot.com

photo urbantimes.co

photo urbantimes.co

Suzanna Lee explains the process:

“The process uses a sugary green tea recipe, to which, a bacterial culture is added. It takes about 2-4 weeks to grow a sheet that is thick enough to use. Sheets are then dried down; either shaped over a wooden dress form–like the ghost dress and ruff jacket [images, below]–or sewn together conventionally. Depending on the recipe the material can either feel like paper or–more desirably–like a vegetable leather.

In testing with dyes we found no need for mordant [a substance used for dyeing fabrics] and an incredibly small amount of dye goes a long way so it’s eco-credentials go through the entire process. We also recycle a percentage of the fermentation liquid.”

photo treehugger.com

photo treehugger.com

via fastcodesign.com, biocouture.co.uk, treehugger.com

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