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This Costume Institute exhibition will explore the aesthetic development and cultural implications of mourning fashions of the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Approximately thirty ensembles, many of which are being exhibited for the first time, will reveal the impact of high-fashion standards on the sartorial dictates of bereavement rituals as they evolved over a century.
Evening Dress, ca. 1861 Black moiré silk, black jet, black lace Lent by Roy Langford (C.I.L.37.1a) Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin Willis photo thekinsky.com
The thematic exhibition will be organized chronologically and feature mourning dress from 1815 to 1915, primarily from The Costume Institute’s collection, including mourning gowns worn by Queen Victoria and Queen Alexandra. The calendar of bereavement’s evolution and cultural implications will be illuminated through women’s clothing and accessories, showing the progression of appropriate fabrics from mourning crape to corded silks, and the later introduction of color with shades of gray and mauve.
Mourning Dress, 1902-1904
Black silk crape, black chiffon, black taffeta
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of The New York Historical Society, 1979
(1979.346.93b, c)
Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin Willis
Mourning Dress (Detail), 1902-1904
Black silk crape, black chiffon, black taffeta
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of The New York Historical Society, 1979
(1979.346.93b, c)
Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin Willis
The Anna Wintour Costume Center’s Carl and Iris Barrel Apfel Gallery will orient visitors to the exhibition with fashion plates, jewelry, and accessories. The main Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch Gallery will illustrate the evolution of mourning wear through high fashion silhouettes. Examples of restrained simplicity will be shown alongside those with ostentatious ornamentation. The predominantly black clothes will be set off against a stark white background and amplified with historic photographs and daguerreotypes.
Henriette Favre (French)
Evening Dress, 1902
Mauve silk tulle, sequins
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Miss Irene Lewisohn, 1937
(C.I.37.44.1)
Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Mourning Ensemble, 1870-1872
Black silk crape, black mousseline
Photo: © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Karin Willis
The “Black Ascot,” 1910
Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Getty Images
via metmuseum.org
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