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7 years, 11 months ago
Samuji Pre-Fall 2015
Filled under: Fashion, Front Page
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'Biography' presents a wide selection of works from Elmgreen & Dragset's complex universe, including sculpture, performance and interactive installations. Works from the late 1990s onwards will be shown together with recent projects, ...
Photo Anders Sune Berg
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Finnish designer Samu-Jussi Koski spent much of his early career at Marimekko, and when he launched his own label in 2009 he decided to stay far away from the thing he might have known best: prints. Six years in, he has let a few sneak into Samuji, enlisting former Marimekko colleague Erja Hirvi to design each collection’s offering. (The season’s standout was an arty flower.) “I think it’s quite nice, sometimes, to do a print,” said Koski. “It’s also nice that I don’t need them.”

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Indeed, Koski’s greatest talent seems to be his sense of color. Pre-Fall’s palette was drawn from the work of Johannes Vermeer, whose richly colored portraits inspired a lapis cobweb knit sweater and sky blue mohair robe coat. A double-breasted curly-wool coat in sea-foam green also caught the eye, along with a mustard-colored V-neck blouse. Technique-wise, Koski played with pleats, done sharply on the collar of a burgundy cotton dress and more softly on full skirts. “The frill is a little bit everywhere,” he said. In this lovely collection, everywhere was just enough.

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Lauren Sherman, style.com

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