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10 years, 10 months ago
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA COUTURE 2014 : FINDING PRECIOUSNESS
Filled under: Fashion, Front Page
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'Biography' presents a wide selection of works from Elmgreen & Dragset's complex universe, including sculpture, performance and interactive installations. Works from the late 1990s onwards will be shown together with recent projects, ...
Photo Anders Sune Berg
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Couture homewear: no—it’s not what you think, but nothing ever is at Maison Martin Margiela when the team gets going on its punningly clever ideas for the artisanal couture show. The spring collection is literally made from home furnishing fabrics, curtain material, and carpets, with the twist that the clothes all looked as if they’d come from the residence of someone with a taste for living in arty mid-century-modern style. A further twist to set it all in a Margiela-type “luxury” context: The fabrics were collector’s items in themselves; bolts and scraps of printed materials variously designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, Raoul Dufy, and Mariano Fortuny. All the provenances were recorded in meticulous detail in the program notes—but you could also read it straight out, because the names printed on the selvedges proved it. Print, other than trompe l’oeil, hasn’t had much of a place in the Margiela world till now, but this was a really smart way of introducing it, especially when it came to a pair of great pantsuits made from Dufy’s colorful flower patterns. Take that, everyone who says “print is over.” No, it isn’t, when it can suddenly look this cool.

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The models once more walked with faces covered, this time with organdy veils whose eyeholes were embroidered. Kanye West made Artisanal’s last, glittering face-huggers practically iconic when he wore them on his tour. But these masks were so damn creepy that, instead of forcing 100 percent of your focus on the clothes (surely the point of the exercise), they left you pondering beauty and horror, and the life-forms that might need such coverage.

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