Balmain – the French fashion house, that was founded by Pierre Balmain, known for its classic and luxurious designs it’s starting to bloom under the guidance of a 27 years old , biracial youth. Fresh start and different culture inside the luxury house. Rousteing received the challenge of keeping alive the French traditions and history at the house of Balmain in 2011, after Christophe De Carnin’s departure. Although his past seems slightly controversial as he is of black origin and adopted from an orphanage, his flair and powerful mix between classy & already used chic creations, seems to have worked for Balmain.

Olivier Rousteing
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The spring summer 2013 collection of Rousteing was all about all ledge shoulders, harlequin checks, jackets and dresses formed from basketry, crystal sparkles, and white lace, spray-on skinny jeans, high-waisted pants and flat A-line leather skirts. Rousteing’s inspirations for the collection included the black-and-white tile floors and wicker chairs of Cuba. Vertical stripes also ran throughout the collection. It was all about the nineties, Latin-style to bring out the sensuality and the power of the women.

Balmain Spring 2013
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A clear rocker Balmain vibe was present, but the clothing was wearable, yet still edgy. Boyfriend style jackets, flared skirts, blazers, and jumpsuits, they’ve all formed part of Rousteing collection. Sophistication and subtlety with all the pavé crystal embroidery on the dresses that were running down the catwalk. The silhouette included one-piece jumpsuits, and blazers and a lot of mirror and beading embellishment on dresses. Rousteing did his years of apprenticeship under the guidance of Peter Dundas, at Roberto Cavalli. . The touch of Dundas is obvious on him; he gained courage, glamour, the thirst for sexiness and chic, the passion that flows at his touch – the concept of dressing a woman in such a sexy, but rough way; a hint of couture, a more used couture, but in a clean way. A hint of couture , a more used couture, but in a clean way.All these crowned by tradition and mixed subcultures.

Balmain Spring 2013
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Balmain Spring 2013
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What I appreciated at Olivier’s creations for the past two years, are the extra long blazers with hugely exaggerated shoulders, lots of prints, gold traces, pearls and diamonds attached on almost everything. Lurex mini skirts, embroidered rhinestones, marbled leather and audacious jewelry. This young, cool and eccentric French designer celebrates sophistication, sensuality and independence of the women. He gets the point of the modern woman, he brings together that controlled exuberance and the aura of the female that is always in line with the times. His runway is covered with timeless pieces , adornments, embroidery, that rock & roll attitude, sexy and detached.

Balmain Spring 2013
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The color palate that he used for the S/S 2013 collection was eggshell white, yellow, faded blue, black, and metallic silver.He went for though-fluid and high-waisted tailored pants reiterated in many ways and fabrics: in denim, in leather, striped . All this feast was spiced with very early 1990’s shinny stiletto heels with pointed toe. The ears of the models were adorned with oversized silver metallic hoops, compensating the easy going hair-style and make-up. A very glam-chic welcoming to Cuba, wearing Sade’s touches…Rousteing’s inspiration for his collection, from whom he borrowed the braided ponytail, oversized gold hoops and the shoulder pads.

Balmain 2013
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Balmain Spring 2013
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I must admit, I feel overwhelmed when I look at his creations, I am like a child that has a big bag full of yummy candies in front of his eyes. And I can’t wait to savour them all, I can’t get enough of it… I am enchanted by his ultra-contemporary vision of fashion sprinkled with a drop of roughness and Hollywood glamour. Olivier Rousteing, keep doing what you are doing, cause it looks breathless!

By Lavinia Untanu

Lavinia Untanu graduated from the University of Journalism, Communication and Public Relations in 2009.

She is a journalist interested to built a career in fashion. Currently working as a freelancer, her aim is to become a successful fashion editor/stylist.