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The ascension to the front row of any fashion show is a long process. At first you strive to just get in the door, yearning for the brights lights and thumping sounds of a ‘real fashion show’. Then you happily accept a standing ticket. And as you earn your stripes, and your seat, you gradually progress to the fabled Frow where you sit comfortably in the knowledge that you’ve finally ‘made it’. But not if you were at Raf Simons SS15 show in Paris yesterday. With no seats at all, and the many fashion insiders standing side by side, Simons managed to democratise fashion, but according to him it was just because “you perceive things differently when you’re upright.”
But whether upright or with your backside firmly placed on a seat there was no getting away from the majesty that was Simons’ show. Inspired by memories, there were moments when the collection dove right into the nostalgic, but the type that makes you look upon the past and smile inwardly, a collection of moments that represent a life. And upon watching Simon’s collection you really did feel like he was letting you in on his past secrets. His parents were backstage throughout the whole show and fragments of Simons’ life found their way into the collection – be it in the form of images of Mount Fuji to fluffy kittens on shirts, to black and white photographs of his parents to a shot of a rollercoaster that he had ridden years before with super stylist Olivier Rizzo.
Large lapelled naval jackets came down the runway cut beautifully and pinched in at the waist. Most were again embellished with the designer’s very own mood boards, intricacies loaded with sentiment in the way that a bead or sequin could never fulfil. Trousers were slim cut but still free enough to move in. Footwear came in two forms: the a simple tennis shoe in black and blues reminiscent of the Stan Smith Simons himself was wearing and the other, a more complexed platformed runner in block colours, white, orange, yellow and purple. Knitwear was light in mottled colours of blues and whites or blues and reds. Shirt and trouser combos came in matching colours of dirty pinks, blues and beige’s bearing an “RS” crest in a prison like style.
Where many designers look to both the future and general history as a sense of inspiration for a collection, Simons interpretation of his own past says so much more, at once drawing us closer to him as a designer and person. “I could only go deep into myself to find another challenge”. Meaningful, deliberate, sublime.
via hungertv.com