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Katie Gallagher’s clothes are hauntingly beautiful, a personification of herself. The gothic clothing, featuring ebony, metallic slate, and cobalt, features draping, sheer layers, and architectural seams. Be it high-slit swimwear or mesh leggings, her collections draw inspiration from those tangible and abstract: “Everything and Forever” explores rebirth and innocence, while “The Winter That Froze You Away” is reminiscent of Nordic ice princesses; note the pale-faced models clad in spider-like details, laser-cut leather, and lycra-wool knit. Her aesthetic, which is equal parts delicate and spooky, extends to the miniscule details of each garment and beauty decision. Case and point: who else would pair sea creature talons, courtesy of Simcha Whitehall for Color Club, and dotted black and blue claw-like nails?
Tell us about yourself.
I live in New York, but I was born between a farm and a forest somewhere in the United States. I graduated from the Rhode Island School of Design, and have been working on my own since.
What is beauty to you and how do you define beauty? Beauty is what we want to see. A mirror shows us a place where we discover that we have an image and, at the same time, that this image can be separate from us, that our image does not belong to us.
What inspired you to debut your own collection in 2010?
I graduated from RISD and honestly couldn’t imagine doing anything other than continuing to make things. The opportunity was there and I took it.
Goth-influences, bodycon, and futuristic motifs are common in your collections. Would you agree that your aesthetic is “darkly romantic”?
Everyone conceptualizes things differently. The things I create aren’t always going to be executed in a way that can be identified by everyone.
What type of girl (or celebrities) do you envision wearing Katie Gallagher?
I would like to believe that anyone can wear Katie Gallagher. I love seeing the people that I would never expect wearing my clothes.
You deliberately use natural fibers like lambskin, silk, kangaroo leather, etc. Why do you take such careful attention to the materials?
I like using natural textiles and skins. They create more luxurious pieces, naturally.
For your first apparel design project at RISD, you were tasked to create wearable clothing from unconventional materials. You chose springs using Plexiglas rods – a very creative decision. Why did you use such materials?
My original idea was to create my design out of ivory telephone cords. I bought millions of them from Ebay. Then, after a few tests, I realized that metal springs were a similar shape but more structured and I could create a piece that I didn’t even have to use glue or any sort of unnatural bonding technique to build a dress. I started ordering metal springs from Ebay. I found a guy that had a factory in Pennsylvania. He agreed to send me tons of these springs in various sizes. I was enthralled. Then! He emailed me weeks into the project telling me that his factory blew up. I was devastated but was determined to make my idea work. I bought a drill, plexi-glass rods in a few different sizes and tons of galvanized steel and aluminum wire.
What role does color play in your work?
I use color often actually! I like to create collections based on themes. If a color works for me in that theme, I go for it. I have used bright red, cobalt blue, purple, navy, army green and cornmeal yellow but do prefer blacks, greys and whites over all.
Your past collections have been called “The Heart of the Woods and What I Found There”, “Arena”, “Gris-Gris”, “Red Red Blood.” Where do you draw inspiration for your collections and how do you name your collections?
My inspiration comes from different sources every season, the things I am drawing, painting…seeing, music I am listening to… I like to come up with a theme that I can go off on for the season.
As a graduation from Rhode Island School of Design (RISD), what are the greatest lessons you took away that have helped you, either in your artistic career or day-to-day life?
Work harder than you think anyone else is working. There is a tangible, three dimensional solution for every two dimensional drawing or idea.
What have been some defining moments in your career?
Everyday is something. It’s been a really hard process and I feel like there’s still a long way to go. I can see that now, I didn’t see it so clearly before.
You’re based in New York. Where are your favorite locations to hang out?
I have a bunch! Grotto, Hudson Clearwater, An Choi, The Sweet Life, Lovely Day. These are my current favorite spots for food, drinks and candy!
Who and what inspire you?
Carnations in baby pink, white masses, tabernacles and black onyx.
What are three things most people don’t know about you?
1. I have one double jointed finger with a bat tattooed on it.
2. I’ve never drank a full beer.
3. When I was a child, I wanted to be a nun.
For more of Katie’s designs, visit www.katiegallagher.com
Article and interview via www.therawbook.com