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4 years, 9 months ago
Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear
Filled under: Fashion, Front Page
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'Biography' presents a wide selection of works from Elmgreen & Dragset's complex universe, including sculpture, performance and interactive installations. Works from the late 1990s onwards will be shown together with recent projects, ...
Photo Anders Sune Berg
perrotin.com

The idea of getting “dressed to kill” (or be killed) originated with bullfighters. Are you for one second surprised that for Dolce & Gabbana, Spain is the new Sicily? Those two points on the compass share a wealth of inspirations for Domenico and Stefano. Today there were a black net sheath, a black corset paired with thigh-high black stockings, a black jacket and pencil skirt combination that had the sexy severity of the racy widow—all of it adding up to enough Catholic guilt to choke a pope. There were also flamenco polka dots.

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But at the same time, the corrida opened up a new world of possibilities for the designers. The silhouette and embellishment of a matador’s jacket inspired an entire passage of the collection. It was aired with rompers to bring it up to this decade. Then there was the color red: the color of blood in the bullring, the color of the carnations that were Domenico’s mother’s favorite flowers. They were embroidered everywhere, but were most effective as the streamlined adjunct to a body-conscious striped top.

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The show was huge, but inside, fighting to get out, was a straightforward story of leggy silhouettes, romantic full skirts, and ornate embellishment on simple shapes. The finale nailed that. The Dolce army marched in white bullfighter shirts and high-waisted, embroidered shorts in red duchesse. Olé!

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Tim Blanks

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