The Moncler Gamme Rouge show ended with a parade of models in red riding coats escorted by dancers dressed as Queen’s Guard soldiers. It was the type of campy grand finale that, on the final day of Paris fashion week, could have been a hallucination (Instagram, thankfully, confirms the contrary). But even the main attraction, enhanced by fog-machine vapors curling through a simulated forest floor, positioned the collection as something more than your everyday equestrian outing.
Backstage, designer Giambattista Valli explained that the horsey milieu—from traditional British hunting attire to stylized jockey-esque uniforms—provided a more tailored template for Moncler’s elevated range. Traditional tweeds, tartan, and mohair checks were transposed onto tech fabrics or spliced with luxe tinted skins. Despite additional constants—black knee-padded leggings, tightly tied scarves, bowl-shaped helmets—no two looks showed the same mix of layering, shearling patchwork, and skirt volume, as if defiantly countering the brand’s core offering. Heraldic prints, mixed-material camouflage, fox panels like fluffy pony hair, and even a trompe l’oeil gold chain belt with a stable key ticked off any remaining tropes—minus an actual horse.
Amy Verner, via style.com