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Vika Gazinskaya didn’t need to mount a show or even stage a presentation during Paris fashion week; she simply needed to wear her clothes. To the Valentino show, she stepped out in a gathered paisley tunic over a T-shirt and cropped pants. To Elie Saab, she donned a dark striped suit topped with a paisley chiffon robe that trailed like a serif flourish when buoyed by the wind. To Hermès, she opted for a white blouse punctuated with two paisley droplets and a jacquard paisley skirt. Her pal, Russian fashion director Anya Ziourova, also helped spread Gazinskaya’s Spring ’15 message, appearing one day in a flounced brick red top held up by a linear array of straps arching over the right shoulder.
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Gazinskaya says she played with a loosely colonial theme—think East India Company rather than early American—and you could see it not just in her hand-drawn paisley illustrations but also in the way she appropriated wrapping and draping techniques. Straight-leg pants with a diagonal panel and pleated waist confirmed that the designer puts effort into precise construction. The same could be said for the “curtain” blouse, which integrated a white cotton body and black silk and wool overlay, the latter drawn to one side, to achieve an elegant, sash-like silhouette.
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Gazinskaya successfully bounced between masculine and feminine codes, showing a black wool evening gown with a sweetheart neckline and delicate crisscross straps on the one hand, and on the other, a notch-collar, single-vent suit jacket. This season she also respected the balance between solids, prints, and no color at all. Most of all, though, her whimsical touches—a floral appliqué complete with stem or a rogue paisley on the back of a dress—conveyed a distinct cheeriness that persists whether or not it’s Gazinskaya wearing them.
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