Variations on a seductress theme shaped Zuhair Murad’s Spring collection. In his showroom just off the Avenue Montaigne, the designer talked about his elegant gitane (French for “gypsy”) inspiration. He explored florals with fresh allure via dégradé prints, peasant-style blouses, flower embellishments, ponchos, and billowy skirts. To see how Murad combined broderie anglaise, crochet, and macramé detailing into a sexed-up dress in one look and a proper front-belted jacket and trousers in another is to understand the breadth of his market. Indeed, for those who might normally associate the designer with daywear, the tailored suiting with openwork down the shoulder or thighs will be worth a glance.
But Murad never loses sight of the fact that his women want to make an entrance, so this season he arrived at a grouping of nude-effect gowns with iris-shaped paneling to resemble tattoos. If they bordered on NSFW (especially if your work happens to be the red carpet), his ruby-hued dresses qualified as safer, albeit to the point of déjà vu. The designer noted that this is the first time he has introduced calf-length skirts—usually he sticks to mid-thigh or floor-grazing. He’ll likely receive good response to this midi in-between, especially the lace skirts with snap fronts. They typify Murad’s sweet spot of refined and risqué.